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Jun 2 12 11:20 PM

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From an earlier indication in the Members Lounge section ("Instructor Needed") Mark, you mentioned wanting to learn more about how to repair a glue smear. I ran across a very easy way of repairing "glass" with glue spots on them, as long as the glue hasn't eaten into the window too deep. (if model glue was used)

I was finishing building a Monogram '86 Monte Carlo SS, and somehow got a glue spot right in the center of the windshield. I'm usually very careful when it comes to glass installation, but must have gotten a little bit of epoxy on my fingertip, which was transferred to the inside of the winshiled as I held it in place.It's a wonder I didn't glue my finger in as well! 

Here is how I went about repairng the bad spot.....I took some 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and wet-sanded the spot real good. At this point, you'll think that the window is "toast" and should be thrown in the trash! Keep going though. Next I used some Turtle Wax Polishing Compound (in the black plastic bottle)and gave it two separate applications. This made it come out almost usable without any further work, but not quite. I then washed the window good with warm water and dish washing liquid. After I dried it good, I then used a good paint brush, and applied a good even coat of Future Floor Wax to the inside of the windshield. I let it dry for for 24 hours before I touched it, although you don't really have to.  

The best way to use the Future Floor Wax, is to "dip" the window. I had to repair it in the car, as I had already epoxied it in, so I had to brush it on. It worked just as well.

Because Future is acrylic, it is self-leveling. It left no brush marks or blemishes. the windshield looks just as good after the repair, as it did when I opened up the kit!  I would think that this same method would work on molded-in-color bodies as well, although the Future Floor Wax step might not be used. I would think just a good overall polishing of a body would probably do the trick after the glue spot repair is made.

There are other methods of doing repairs like this also, but I found this one to be very effective (not to mention very easy!). Snake45 should be able to give you some very good tips on polishing out bodies, as he is very good at it, and has done much more of it than I have.

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#1 [url]

Jun 2 12 11:29 PM


Don't know why, but this thing wouldn't let me put the photos in with the glue spot repair tip. I wish I had taken some photos of the windshield before I had repaired the spot, but I was very skeptical that this method was going to work. I was wrong! Here is a couple of photos of the windshield after I repaired the 5-minute epoxy spot I got on the inside of it. As I stated earlier, it looks as good after the repair as it did when I opened up the kit! 




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#3 [url]

Jun 3 12 7:52 AM

One nice thing about Future is that if you screw it up, or it gets dust or something in it, you can strip it right back off in seconds with either household ammonia or rubbing alcohol and have another go at it.

(I've never used it myself for clear plastic, but I have a lot of friends over in "model airplane world" who absolutely swear by the stuff for airplane canopies. Supposedly it will also prevent "fogging" from superglues, too.)

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#4 [url]

Jun 3 12 12:25 PM

Thank you, and I do mean many thanks, for that repair tip.  I had no idea that wet sanding could be used on clear plastic, but you have shown the proof.  What number of grit should be used?

I wish I would have known about this method many years ago, when I built the Monogram 1941 Continental kit, with the body molded in beautiful dark blue.  I was headed toward a perfect build, when I got a glue smear on the driver's door.  It was still a good looking model, and I kept it for a number of years, but that glue smear always annoyed me.

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#5 [url]

Jun 3 12 12:48 PM

Clear plastic can be cut, filed, sanded, and polished, just like any other styrene, except it is more brittle (can't be flexed as much) and, of course, if you break it, it can't be glued back together in a "seamless" or invisible repair like colored plastic.

Another thing that works really well on clear plastic is the set of three fingernail polishing boards you can get CHEAP at Walmart (about $2 or $3). Use them in order 1-2-3 and I swear you can't tell the difference between the shine they put on and the shine from careful polishing with a compound. I've even started using them to polish up whole bodies, they work so well.

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#6 [url]

Jun 3 12 12:56 PM

This is great information.  Situations that I thought were hopeless, are repairable after all.  I am glad to have you guys on the forum.  For me, this is like "Promos 101", and I am enjoying it, and I also appreciate it.

Mark

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#7 [url]

Jun 3 12 8:25 PM

One thing I forgot to mention in the tip, is to be very careful if you are repairing any windows. As Snake mentioned, the clear plastic is more brittle than the rest of the model, and doesn't flex very well. Therefore, the chances of breaking the piece is greater also. Make sure you support any clear piece (window) very well from the backside, and when sanding the spot, do it gently. Don't bear down on it, or disaster awaits!  It will take a little more time to sand it down, but patience will perservere in this case. You'll get the feel for it. You don't want to break the window in your prized model. And as Snake also mentioned, you won't be able to glue  the glass back together without the "seam" being very noticable. There's no repairing that! I had my windshield epoxied into the car already, so it was supported well anyway. Ideally, you would want to repair it out of the model if possible.

Mark......I used 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper for my repair, but you could probaly start as low as 600 depending on the severity of the glue spot. Then progress up as far as you want to go. I haven't tried the fingernail polishing boards that Snake mentioned. He has told me about them in the past also, and if he says they work well, you can take that to the bank!

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#8 [url]

Jun 4 12 2:48 PM

Those details help a lot, and I am grateful for them.  Would it be carrying things too far to try this on an entire "glass" area that is crazed, such as those old JoHan promos, like this Lark:


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#9 [url]

Jun 4 12 8:02 PM

Wow, that one IS crazed! No, it would not be carrying it too far at all to do the entire glass. It doesn't matter whether it's just a spot, or the whole entire glass, the method will work just the same. I had the majority of my windshield sanded when I did my repair. This would be a prime candidate for this repair technique, as long as it's styrene. You will be absolutely amazed at how it will turn out.

How deep is the crazing on the Lark windows, Mark? If it isn't too deep, you will have great luck in repairing it. If it's too deep, you'll have to get it to where it's the best you can get it, and call it good. You don't want to keep sanding until it gets too thin, then you take a chance on breaking it by just handling it. Once again, you should be able to get the feel for it after getting to working on it. Those old Jo-han kits and promos seem to have thicker plastic than the other companies, so you will probably have plenty to work with.



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#10 [url]

Jun 4 12 8:34 PM

One more thing I didn't mention in the tip information, is about coating the window with Future. When you get ready for this final step, you have to coat the entire window, not just the spot you repair. It won't look right, or be uniform if you don't do the entire window. I saw this immediately when I started brushing on the Future on the inside of my windshield. I just brushed it on the whole inside of the windshield, and you can see how well it worked! You don't have to do both sides, if you are only repairing one side, unless you are dipping the piece. Then it won't matter anyway. Of course, you can put the Future on both sides if you choose, and it won't hurt a thing. 

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#12 [url]

Jun 5 12 9:09 PM

    Thanks for the tip.  I probably will try it, after about a half dozen other projects on the roster.  I usually have too many irons in the fire.

-mwcrowel

Don't feel bad Mark, I think the majority of us have that going on! I see it all the time on the forums. Everything that I have, I want to start working on! Obviously with over 750 models to build, promos to clean up and/or fix up, and a few die cast kits to put together, it's just impossible to do. It doesn't stop me from wanting to though!!

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#13 [url]

Jun 7 12 6:04 AM

If I had that many projects ahead of me, as slowly as I work, I'd have to live two hundred years!surprise
May you live a long, healthy life, my friend, and thanks for making me feel better.

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#14 [url]

Jun 7 12 9:53 PM



    If I had that many projects ahead of me, as slowly as I work, I'd have to live two hundred years![image]
May you live a long, healthy life, my friend, and thanks for making me feel better.



-mwcrowel



I'm probably one of the slowest builders there is anymore, Mark! I built two models in the last two years (one per year), so I can only guess how the seven I have going right now are going to fare! Although I do have to have one of them done by February 2013 for an annual contest I am participating in on another forum. I think I'll do a little better on these I have going, though. I used to be a whole lot faster when I was younger, but as the years progress and the health isn't what it used to be, I've slowed way down.
I'm with you, I'd have to live two hundred years to build 'em all too! And that's if I didn't buy any more!! (and I know that won't happen) lol! 
Oh well, it's a good thing I like collecting the kits, promos, and other cars that interest me! They're all a representation of automotive history to me. That's what I love, the automotive history.
I hope you live a long, healthy, happy life as well my friend. 

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#16 [url]

Jan 6 13 6:02 AM

Even after a CA vapor fogging, sometimes Future alone will reverse the damage. Because the Future process is reversable as Snake explained, it is often a first order triage before trying anything else. I am one of those canopy coaters...inside and out...that snake mentioned. It greatly increases reflective properites if applied smooth enough to self-level. That in turn increase the visibility of interior details.

I can also endorse Snake's recomendation on the 3 step nail buffers. In the case above, the finest is going to be finer than 1000 grit. I would triage in reverse order, i.e., use the finishing buffer and Future first to see if it cures the problem. If not, remove the clear coat and try step 2 buffer...etc. Good protocol always is least intrusive method first. The buffers also are foam cored which affords some flexibility and ability to follow curves rather than to scallop planes flat. Follow the cushoning of the foam don t fight it, and this will slow you down and help avoid the pressure cracks. If you fight the cushoning you will almost certainl fail...i.e. break the clear plastic.

Flip

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